Bolivian Transportation Adventures
Bolivia – Chacaltaya – Illimani Peak in the background and the highest we have ever been! 17,785 feet
Bolivia transportation really threw us on the ropes this week.
First, we biked down the DEATH ROAD. Scary, yes, but at least you are in control of your own fate. Read more about this in the MOVE section.
Second, we had planned to head to southern Bolivia about mid-week, however Bolivia had other ideas. There was a massive road blockade preventing all traffic south. We were told that no buses would be going to that area until early next week – if at all. We did however, find a company that takes a slightly different route to Uyuni (south, but further west than our intended target of Potosi or Sucre) and they had space for Sunday’s overnight bus. So instead of heading south this week, we just hung out in and around La Paz for a few extra days.
Third, we had a horrible bus ride to and from Chacaltaya peak (beautiful mountain, terrible driver). The driver was going was too fast on a very bumpy road and we both hit our heads on the ceiling multiple times. And to top it all off, we hit a pedestrian coming back into La Paz – terrifying! Granted, it was on a highway, but again, the driver was going way too fast. We were in the far left lane, passing a car in the middle lane that had slowed to a stop. A pedestrian was crossing in front of that car and stepped out in front of us. Our driver braked, but was going too fast to stop. We hit her with a terrible thud, and then ran over something. Everyone in the bus shrieked and covered their faces. It turns out that we ran over her bag and not her. She was uninjured enough to stand, but very upset. Then, to our shock, she climbed in our bus! We couldn’t understand a word of what they were saying, but apparently she wanted us to take her to the hospital. Our guide ended up calling another bus for us and the pedestrian stayed with the driver on the way to the hospital.
1. Go
- Bus – 344 km. At the beginning of the week we took a short bus ride to start our Death Road trip. About mid-week we returned from Coroico to La Paz via the new “Most Dangerous Road.” On Friday and Saturday (worst bus ride of the trip) we took day trips out of La Paz on buses.
- Minibus – 5 km. In La Paz, there are hundreds of little vans and minibuses driving around shouting destinations. They are very cheap and convenient. However, sometimes traffic is so bad that it’s faster to walk.
- Taxi – 9 km. After surviving the Death Road, we thought we wouldn’t survive this taxi ride to our hotel in Coroico.
- Bike – 60 km. We biked the DEATH ROAD (read more about it in the MOVE section).
- Foot – 117,000 steps in 7 days (approx. 58 miles)
2. See
The Death Road ride ended near the town of Coroico, where we stayed for two nights. It was a nice change in climate. We have spent the last few weeks mostly over 10,000 feet, where the weather is clear, sunny, dry, and cold. Coroico, on the other hand, is only 5,000 feet and in a lush rain forest. It was warm, humid, and cloudy while we were there. It even rained overnight!
Bolivia – Coroico – Sol y Luna
Since we had a few extra days in La Paz, we spent them doing some day trips. On Friday we visited Tiwanku, a ruin a short ride from La Paz near the south end of Lake Titicaca. It wasn’t nearly as impressive as other ruins we’ve seen, but they did have some pretty cool monoliths and a sunken area with faces carved into the walls.
On Saturaday, we visited Chacaltaya and Valle de la Luna. Chacaltaya is a 17,785 foot peak just north of La Paz. The ride to and from was miserable (read introduction), but the peak itself was excellent. It sometime opens as a ski area too – although there are no lifts. We were underdressed for the wind, but the views made it bearable. They dropped us off near the peak and we hiked the last half mile – a very tough half mile, mostly lacking air! The peak had amazing views of Illimani Peak (21,122 feet) to the south, Huaina Potosi Peak (19,974 feet) to the north, La Paz, and Lake Titicaca.
Valle de la Luna is on the south side of La Paz, and only slightly lower in elevation. It’s a strange place that feels straight out of a Star Trek episode. Pat said it felt like a cave that had the top ripped off. It is slightly reminiscent of Cappadoccia in Turkey or Bryce Canyon, but on a smaller scale.
3. Eat
Plastic bags… ok, clarification – we did NOT eat plastic bags, but everything is served on the street in plastic bags. Plastic bags filled with banana chips, nuts, popped corn, saltañas, pastries, cake, eggs… even drinks (they ladle it into the bag, put a straw in it, and tie it off)! One of our favorite street snacks (other than saltañas) is puffed corn and pasta. It’s sweet, kind of like kettle corn, but it’s definitely not the shape of regular popped corn.
Bolivia – La Paz – Street Snacks
Other than street food (saltañas or anything in a plastic bag), we haven’t been too impressed with Bolivian cuisine… YET. It may be great, but we haven’t found it yet.
4. Drink
Bolivian wine is surprisingly good! We picked up a bottle (or 3) of a red table wine from Tarija for 20 Bolivianos (less than $3 USD) and it was really good. We like the red better than the white, but you can’t complain at that price!
5. Sleep
In Coroico, we stayed at Sol y Luna Ecolodge. It was a bit pricier than usual, but everyone we talked to said it was a must. Our hut was made of bamboo and was completely open air (no doors or windows). The lower space had a kitchen and sitting area, and the bed was in the loft above. Pretty great!
Bolivia – Coroico – Sol y Luna – View from Jatata sleeping loft
In La Paz, we stayed at Arthy’s Guesthouse again. Just as before, great location and helpful staff.
6. Move
We started this week by risking our lives on the DEATH ROAD. This road used to be the only road to Coroico and was declared the “World’s Most Dangerous Road.” But a new road was built in 2007 and now the old road is used almost entirely by tourists on mountain bikes and their support vehicles (including ambulances). It’s a 60km ride that drops from around 15,000 feet to 5,000 feet – serious downhill!
Pat did some research before we committed to this adventure. The biggest danger on the ride is bad equipment, poor guides, over confidence, and other riders… not to mention the 2,000 foot cliff on the side of the road. We end up picking Gravity Assisted Mountain Biking. They have an excellent reputation for quality gear, emphasizing safety, and experienced guides. We were not disappointed. The bikes were are Kona and fairly new. They also provided helmut (duh), gloves, pants, and jacket – not a very flatteringly ensemble (Lindsey seriously looks 100 pounds heavier), but it kept us warm and safe. They also gave us a t-shirt and buff to keep.
**Photos below taken by the Gravity Assisted Mountain Biking staff and edited by us. See all their photos of us on the Death Road here.
Pat loved the ride, and was one of the faster riders. Lindsey was a little nervous the whole time and ended up being one of the slower riders. This wasn’t a problem since they stopped often to let everyone catch up and check in.
Check out Pat’s CADENCE Week 7 post (coming soon) for details about this week.
7. Etcetera
We happened to be in La Paz during their big celebration for the city. The evening before they closed down the main road and turned it into a pedestrian walkway. It was lined with stands making drinks surrounded by benches. The big plaza had a stage set up and was packed with people. There was also a parade filled with marching bands. We only walked around until 9pm or so before heading in for the night. The following day was a holiday. Very few places were open and there were plenty of passed out partiers lining the streets from the night before. They city was dirtier and smellier than we had ever seen it. The only people out and about were people stumbling home and street cleaners. By the following day, the city had returned to it’s usual busy self.
Another thing we noticed about La Paz is there unique use of electrical wires. The whole city is covered in a maze of wires. They are often entangled with trees or have loose ends hanging down into the sidewalk.
Nomadic Cadence – Bolivia – La Paz
Check out our Flickr album to see all our photos from this week.
Nomadic Cadence 
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